First thing I did this morning was get lost. I was walking along, thinking I knew where I was going, ignoring the complete lack of Camino waymarkers. I walked past a yellow arrow on a lamppost, pointing down instead of up, with a curvy line for a tail. I thought, "Hmmm, that was strange" and kept walking. Suddenly I stopped a few blocks later as it occurred to me that the upside down arrow meant I was going the wrong way. By then I was totally confused and an hour behind schedule, so I found a bus stop I had used the night before. I knew the bus would take me to city center where I could pick up the Camino a little farther down the line. I paid my €1.30 and boarded the bus. Less than two blocks later, I saw a waymarker and several pilgrims. As I got off the bus, I know that bus driver thought I was crazy. Oh well.
As I walked through the ancient city center, I passed a bakery in a non-descript old building. The pastries in the window stopped me in my tracks. Even though I was behind schedule, I went in and ordered a petit chocolate. Most likely the best thing I've had since I've been here. It was similar to a cream puff, with light, fluffy chocolate filling in the center. One step from heaven. If not actually all the way there.
As I continued through the winding city streets, I smiled at everyone I met. Some smiled back, some gave a greeting, and some ignored me as if I were invisible. But one older man, in his 70's, glared back at me, then flicked his cigarette at my feet. I won't pretend to understand his motivation. Maybe he doesn't care for the pilgrims on the Camino. Maybe he doesn't like Americans, and I looked too much like an American carrying a Coca-Cola at 9 am. Maybe that's his idea of a friendly greeting. Who knows? I wished him well in my head and went on my way.
Later on, after I'd left the city, I stopped to make some adjustments. I was on a walking path near a busy road. A car pulled in and, although there was plenty of space to park, he wanted to park where I was standing, so I moved out of his way. A man got out and started up the trail. There were many locals walking the Camino path this morning, so I didn't find it too strange. As I finished my adjustments and continued I on, I saw him ahead. He kept turning around to look at me. Soon I saw him stopped in the middle of the path, talking to another local. As I tried to pass, he refused to move so I could go around.
I kept walking, soon coming up on several other pilgrims who had stopped to eat. I did the same, finding a place close by, but just around the corner so I could have some time to myself. I saw the man come up the path and turn the corner at the crossroad and take a different path. I was somewhat relieved. After about 15 minutes, I finished my breakfast and was packing up to leave, when I saw him come back up the path he had taken. My pack was on the ground next to me. Suddenly he walked right up to me, brushed past me and reached as if he was about to take my pack. I was quicker than him, and swept it up in my arms and he continued on up the trail.
Soon another pilgrim came by and introduced himself to me. His name was Christopher from Calgary. He thanked my for standing where I was because as he'd looked back at me, he noticed the beautiful view. He wouldn't have noticed it otherwise, so he stopped to chat. As he started to walk on, he asked if there was anything he could do for me. Something told me to tell him about the man ahead and ask him to keep an eye out. He instead offered to walk with me for quite awhile. I never saw the man again, which is weird, because he should've had to return to his car, but I am thankful for Christopher, who came along just when I needed him.
Come to think of it, isn't St. Christopher the patron saint of travelers? All I'm saying is, there are no coincidences.
Quick note: I'm doing much better and starting to gain some distance. I'm behind schedule after my rocky start, but not letting it worry me.
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