May 8, 2013

I started out today thinking I felt better, but about halfway to Zubiri, I found I was wrong. I had sent my backpack ahead again, with all my rain gear in it, and of course it started to rain.  Not a heavy downpour, just a steady drizzle, enough to make everything a mess. I must have looked terrible, because every time I stopped for a break, someone would pause and ask if I was ok. ¿Está bien? Si, gracias. Ça va? Ça va. You ok? Yes, I'm fine.  I could answer in three languages. Not bad.

After a bit of an uphill climb, there was a pretty steep drop into Zubiri. It was paved in smooth rocks and full of mud, so the footing was treacherous.  There was no place to lodge  my walking stick for extra traction, so it became a little like rock skating down the hill. Not only dangerous, but extremely tiring on the leg muscles.

Almost to the bottom, I saw Lee and Maureen, the Australian ladies I'd met the first day. They asked me how I was feeling and I burst into tears. Maureen asked if I believed in the power of prayer and I said yes, so they said a little prayer for my health to return. We may have different beliefs in that area, but all positive intentions result in the same thing.

We walked together the rest of the way down the hill. Just as we arrived at the foot of the hill, at the sign announcing our arrival in Zubiri, my feet went out from under me and I landed on my butt in the mud. I was so done, I didn't even have the strength to stand up on my own. Lee helped me to my feet and we trudged on into town. We found a bar where we could warm up and have something to eat, then they continued down the road. I stopped at the albergue in town and asked if they had a bed for the night. They had three left, and one of them was a bottom bunk.  Such a relief, since I couldn't have climbed up to the top. Once again, proving I would be taken care of along the way.

I had plenty of time to rest, connection to wifi, a hot meal and a shower. That's really all I need to be happy. And honestly, the wifi was a bonus, I can be happy without that if I have to. But seriously. This has to get better, right? Tomorrow, Pamplona...